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TEXT TAKEN FROM BREEDING BUDGIES INDOORS
TIPS ON BREEDING BUDGIES
YOUR ENVIRONMENT:
You will need to dedicate a whole room to your flock - A bedroom, dining room
or even an attic, etc, where your birds can breed, play and flourish.
You will also need a separate room or large enclosure for the troublesome birds.
Breeding a flock of budgies from a small stock in your own home is the HOLY GRAIL of the hobby,
especially when they share the same space as yourself. You can monitor the birds directly and
gain a level of understanding which is not possible remotely. The birds will also understand
YOU better and be far more relaxed in your presence.
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CREATING THE INDOOR AVIARY
The philosophy behind your indoor aviary is SAFETY and RICHNESS. This will be their world - their
universe. You'll want your chicks to grow up in a happy relaxed, and safe environment.
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ROOM CONVERSION
__________________
CONSTRUCTION:
Clear the room out completely and cover the carpet wall to wall with cloth. This is particularly
important if your home is rented. Cover the windows completely with garden pond netting.
This is plastic netting and comes in two gauges (the size of the holes). 20mm and 10mm.
Use the 10mm Gauge as the 20mm Gauge is too large and may trap the birds' heads.
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WOODEN WINDOWS:
Tack a line of 15mm tacks all along the frame of the window, spaced every 5Cm.
(If you don't plan to open the windows then every 30Cm is sufficient.)
Don't hammer all the way home - leave about 5mm exposed.
Cut an area of netting larger than the outline of the tacks (about 2 inches on all sides) and
stretch the netting over the tacks - it should be taught.
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PVC WINDOWS:
SUGGESTION: Cut an area of netting larger than the outline of the WINDOW (HALF an
inch on all sides) In this situation it may be better to do each individual pane. Tape GAFFER
TAPE along the edges of the netting. Turn over and repeat on the other side. Align carefully
before pressing down as once the tape sticks to itself it's very difficult to remove. You will
then have and area of netting with a firm border to stick to the window frame.
If you don't need to look out of the windows or open them, then simply tape
bubble wrap over them. Small holes can be cut out at the base for the birds
to look out.
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CURTAINS:
Leave these in place. They enhance the richness of their environment and provide
you with a means of controlling the length of the day.
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WALLS:
Walls must be light and visible. Some budgies will spook at night, and hit the wall if it's
plain or too dark. Strong patterned wallpaper is ideal.
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FITTING OUT
PERCHES:
For a bird, the size of a room is dependent on the distance to the farthest perches. If there's
only one perch, it may as well be in a cage. Fit plenty of perches on the walls about a foot
or so below the ceiling. Don't fit so many that the birds cam walk from side to side without
flying. A lazy bird is a fat bird, and a fat bird is an unhealthy bird! It's preferable
to use twigs than doweling as the uniformity of a doweling can lead to foot sores.
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THE TREE:
The tree is the focal point of your birds' environment. It's their home, their resting place
and their housing estate! The tree with it's branches and multitude of perching positions
provide a natural roosting place far superior to a rack of doweling.
A living tree would be ideal but obviously impractical in a domestic environment. I got my
tree by scouring the local lanes and hills after a strong storm. After letting it dry out
for a week, place the stem in a pot or bucket and fill it with gravel or stones. Stabilize
the tree by looping a wire or strong string around the stem further up and attaching it
to a hook that is fitted to the wall. The laburnum and yew tree must be avoided as these
trees contain poisonous parts.
Place a couple of cages at head height in a corner of the room. These will be used later on
to separate troublesome individuals!
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FURNITURE:
Keep the room as clear as possible apart from a wardrobe and/or table - it will help on a
SEARCH AND RESCUE MISSION.
Seed etc. can be stored in the wardrobe and it's roof can serve as a platform for home-made
nests. Wardrobes with MIRRORS are especially beneficial.
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A ROCK TABLE: A table can be a central feeding point and hold stones and wood to add a
touch of naturalness to what is an artificial environment.
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NIGHT LIGHTS:
Two low powered night lights are essential in any indoor aviary. Youngsters especially can SPOOK
after dark. They will be disturbed by sudden noises or flashes and will fly wildly around the
room striking the walls. Mice are a particular hazard. The bulbs must be 10 to 15 Watts, and
fitted at one end of the room. It should just be possible to read a newspaper at the far end
of the room. If it's easy to read, then it's too bright! Shade the bulbs or ink them over with a
felt tip pen and leave the lights permanently on.
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ULTRA-VIOLET LIGHT:
Your birds will benefit from an ultra-violet lamp operating for part or all of the
daylight hours. This light generates vitamins in the skin and sterilizes the air.
However, prolonged exposure to UV light can damage the eyesight, especially the UVB
component and care must be taken
in its positioning. THEORETICALLY a UVA tube fitted on the ceiling would be the ideal
location. The birds' heads would provide a natural screen for the eyes and their overall
exposure would be uniform, mainly by reflection. I have always used a portable UVA
face lamp and therefore never done this. The lamp is placed on the floor facing a mirror
leaning against a wall. Direct exposure is minimal and the UVB component further
reduced. Never use a UVB reptile lamp for budgies.
Avoid looking directly at the lamp when in the room.
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FIT A DARK PLACE:
It's a good idea to fit a dark place for those budgies who are not happy even with the low
lighting provided. Erect another less substantial tree or branch in a far corner of the
room away from the night light. Hang from the ceiling a BLACK piece of cloth or plastic
such that it shades a fair portion of the tree from the night light. Also black out the
wall immediately behind and to the side of the tree. This will prevent reflections from
the walls spoiling the DARK PLACE.
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NEST BOXES
Budgies don't make their own nests in a tree such as a crow would do. Their native land is
Australia where there is an abundance of Eucalyptus trees. These trees often have holes in the
trunks which the birds take advantage of. In a domestic environment we must provide them with
their nest.
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STANDARD NEST BOXES:
These are small wooden boxes where the front wall or top can be opened.
A box 15cm x 15cm x 15cm would represent an average size. The entrance hole will be about
4.5cm in diameter. A removable piece of wood called the block, concave or bed should also come
with the nest. These have the same dimensions as the floor of the BOX and are about an inch
thick and usually made of chipboard. A depression is Hewen into the middle of the block to keep
the eggs together when the hen leaves the nest. The eggs are then easier for the bird to find
and also keep warmer longer. A hen will lay eggs without the block but the yield will be
substantially less.
Standard nest boxes when used indoors don't receive enough light and need to be modified.
The best way to do this is to cut a portion out of the roof using and electric saw.
FOUR 16mm holes are initially drilled in the roof at the corners. The cut-out can be
covered with gutter netting which is stapled down using an upholsterers' stapler.
Lay small pieces of sticky tape over the parts to be stapled to prevent the staple from
cutting into the plastic. Alternatively use a piece of stiff plastic sheet.
(A door from a CD case will do). Spot the sheet as with the mirror at
1cm intervals and screw down with small countersunk screws. Check after-wards that no
screws are protruding into the box.
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TEMPERATURE:
The room temperature must fluctuate in order for the birds to adapt to cooler conditions. If
the room is at a constant temperature day and night they will not be able to be moved outdoors
later on. An unadapted bird would rapidly catch a cold and die. Check the minimum night time
temperature and if it's greater than 15 degrees centigrade, consider opening a window at
night.
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A SECLUDED AREA
A secluded area of the room, partly blocked by obstructions, can create a retreat for low ranking birds.
Without intervention, these birds would often be chased around
the room during breeding periods. This can be the case whether
the bird is contesting a mate or not.
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MONITORING THE BIRDS
In a restricted environment with limited resources, conflicts and bullying are likely to occur.
Hens will vie for the best cock.
Cocks will vie for the best hen.
Most of the time these conflicts will sort themselves out. A low ranking bird will flee from a
challenge from a high ranking bird. However when it involves birds of equal ranking, the
situation can get rapidly out of control. Squabbles soon turn to fights which can result in
serious injury or death. Without monitoring, there will be no warning and your intervention will
be too late. The installation of a camera in a remote breeding room is essential. Two systems
are available.
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CCTV MONITORING:
This system is the most straightforward. They come in a complete package and
only need a TV and video recorder. Some are fitted with infra-red lights to enable night time
monitoring. This system is recommended for the beginner.
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WEB CAM MONITORING:
This system needs a computer and is more difficult and expensive to set up.
Multiple USB extenders will be needed for long runs and the quality of the lenses is often
very poor. However, once the cable is laid its fairly easy and cheap to install multiple cheap
web cams to monitor HOT SPOTS.
High quality low light web cams are available but are very expensive.
If you're using web cams, tape over the indicator LED with
BLACK PVC TAPE. These lights come on when the camera is
selected. I once caged a hen for a week for intimidating
another one at her nest. After her release I rarely saw her on
the monitor. I discovered later that she was spending most of
her time lurking behind the camera. She'd obviously "clocked
it" and was avoiding being seen!
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KEEPING RECORDS:
Record frequently and randomly throughout the day the ongoings of the aviary. Still do this
even if you can directly monitor the birds - the bitmap image or the video clip has a better
memory and is quicker than the eye. Short video clips are better then stills.
With the help of your monitoring system - either directly or remotely you'll be able to manage
the flock effectively by making informed decisions.
The type of action to take depends on what's happened. Bullying is common even in a small flock and
must be dealt with. However with birds there is a natural pecking order which shouldn't be
interfered with. How do you differentiate between the two?
A high ranking bird will assert
it's authority by flying on to the perch of a lower ranking bird. It will very rarely jump the
bird but land right next to it. The low ranking bird will immediately fly off and land
elsewhere. This is PECKING ORDER establishment and no action is required. However if this is
repeated then it is BULLYING and it must be removed from the flock. In my regime I would cage
it for a week increasing to two weeks on a second occasion. leave the cage in the aviary as
it allows association and gives the rest of the flock a chance to gather what has happened.
Maintaining a constant discipline asserts your authority and engenders respect. With a larger
flock and repeat offenders it is better to build a COMPOUND.
A DAY TO A PAGE diary is the ideal medium for keeping records.
Along with your diary log, a REGISTER is useful to tabulate the main details of a budgies life
(parents, offspring, colour etc). This can save a lot of time trawling through pages of a diary.
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DANGERS OF DISCIPLINE
After caging the bully, it is VERY important to watch the bullied bird. I once caged a low
ranking bird who repeatedly bullied the lowest ranking bird in the flock. The next day I found him walking
around with head injuries! After trawling through the shots of the day It became clear that the bullies'
mate had done it!! It was looking highly likely she had taken revenge.
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MIRRORS:
A budgie likes to see itself - to relate it's own
image to it's neighbors. Wild birds and mammals see themselves in still water. Mans'
high-tech equivalent is appreciated and enjoyed by many budgies. However, mirrors pose
special dangers. A startled bird will fly straight into an unprepared mirror - possibly
suffering fatal injuries. PREPARE YOUR MIRRORS this way.
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SPOTTING:
Using an indelible felt tip pen, cover the mirror with spots! Space them
about 8cm apart and try to make them even to look like a grid. Before introducing
your birds, cover the mirror with a cloth leaving just a single vertical line of spots
exposed. Then position a perch 10 or 11 cm in front of this strip to allow the birds
to investigate the mirror in safety.
After a few days or even a week (there's no hurry) draw back the cloth to
expose another vertical line of spots. By now the birds will have got used to the
mirror, tested it's surface and realize that it's a solid object. Continue this way
until the mirror is fully exposed. Check daily for any mucus on the mirror - you
shouldn't find any!
This process must be repeated for every new introduction.
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Once the room is completed, fit the nest-boxes. Start with 3 and place them in the corners of
the room just below the ceiling. There's a lot of mis-information regarding hens and
nest-boxes. They DON'T have to be identical OR placed at the same height! A hen rarely fights
over a nest - she fights over a MATE!
THE SAFETY CHECK:
Check the room for safety.
There should be no: un-netted windows or interior glass surfaces.
There should be no: exposed sharp objects. (Nails protruding from walls etc.)
There should be no: Ornaments or insecure landing places.
There should be no: Water more than 4cm deep.
There should be no: Domestic chemicals such as detergents, washing powder etc.
There should be no: Rat poison accessible.
There should be no: Domestic pets at loose
There should be no: Way out!
...................................................................................
There must be: A night light.
There must be: Means to monitor the birds.
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BREEDING BUDGIES INDOORS
FEEDING REGIMES.
SEED is the staple diet of budgies supplemented by green vegetables and fresh fruit. Quality
seed is available from PET SHOPS and PET FOOD SUPPLIERS. Various mixes are available.
GREEN VEGETABLES such as lettuce, spinach,water cress etc can be given on a weekly basis and
supplement the seed which is deficient in some VITAMINS.
CARROTS have been suggested as being nutritious however I have NEVER got my birds to eat them!
NEVER feed your budgie kitchen scraps - Its digestive system is not adapted to some components
of human food, and the chicks may become bilious when given to them.
NEVER feed your budgie AVOCADOS - they are POISONOUS!
Provide multiple feeding points. This will enhance the decision making process in the
developing youngsters and also give the bullied bird an alternative feeding place.
Fit a hanging feeder near the middle of the room, just below the ceiling and fill with #1
budgie seed.
Distribute seed around the room, widely separated from each other, and sprinkle some on
the ROCK TABLE.
Put seed in the cages and fit a water feeder bottle. (A 300ml BUNNY WATER BOTTLE is ideal)
Place at least 2 trays of WATER nearby.
Attach a few millet sprays to the branches of your tree. This is a natural stalk jam-packed
with millet, and is high in protein. Use sparingly as a treat for your birds.
HANGING MILLET SPRAY / SPRIGS: There are special holders available for hanging millet spray
but I have never used these. I used to use clothes pegs for a long time, however these can inch their
way out of position and trap a budgies foot. Its rare but after the second occurrence in 2 years I devised
a better alternative.
Wrap 10 to 15 turns of BELL WIRE (HOOK-UP WIRE) tightly around the end of the
sprig and hang it in position. (I use 0.6mm single core wire 1000V).
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GRIT:
Budgies have no teeth! They need a regular supply of grit to grind up their food. Cuttle
fish bone provides this grit and also calcium and phosphorus for the eggs. These are available
from pet stores. Divide the bones
in two or three pieces and wedge them in the tops of the cages. Some budgies prefer plaster
from the wall because of it's harder texture. If your room is papered, scrape a bit off near a
perch to allow the birds access to this valuable resource.
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BATHING:
Budgies are clean creatures and take great care to maintain their feathers.
Providing fresh water in a bowl on a weekly basis helps them to do this. Any container is suitable
providing the water is no more than 4cm deep.
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THE DEMARCATION LINE!
My aviary was built in the dining area of an open-plan domicile.
After acquiring my stock I fitted a curtain to separate the aviary from the living room.
This is important because the birds can be confined to the safety of their own quarters when
no one's at home. Also lights going on and off and TVs flashing can disturb the flock at night.
When open, the birds will respect your territory and will rarely fly into the room. However,
fit a perch on the far side of the room for the odd occasion when this happens.
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STOCK ACQUISITION:
One of the biggest problems when starting a breeding colony is getting good stock.
Initially start with two bonded adult pairs. The best source for these is an aviary,
SHOW BRED birds, ie those bred in a breeding cage are less suitable,
They are genetically poorer than a colony bird and may find it difficult to adapt to the new
system. Pet shop birds are too young and have probably been cage bred. A hobby breeder with
surplus stock is ideal.
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CHOOSING YOUR PAIRS.
The earlier in the day the better - it gives the BIRDS lots of time to get acquainted to the room
before roosting.
Take along an empty cage or bird carrier and a box of seed or millet spray.
Watch the birds interact for a while and choose a couple who are bonded. They will be
showing affection toward one another - PREENING etc. A lone bird should be avoided - no
matter how pretty it looks. The keeper will net the birds for you and place them in your
cage. Before he does so, check the birds' nostrils (called the CERE]. This should be a
pure blue for a male and grey or brown for a female. Youngsters (less than three months
old) of both genders tend to have a purplish blue cere. You need a pair at mature breeding
age. {10 months to two years old). The breeder should know the age of each individual in
his flock - if not, it's pot luck!
Hobby breeders tend to breed from spring to autumn, so choosing at this time can be a bit
tricky. One of my hens I acquired was actually in lay when I bought her.
Although not a disaster, this is something you want to avoid.
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RELEASING THE BIRDS.
The aviary is finished, the nest boxes are up and you've brought the birds home. Close
the demarcation curtain or the door.
Place the cage on a table near the window and open the cage door. Don't force the birds
out at this time but sit in a corner and watch.
One by one they will emerge. Note the order as it will help you assess their individual
characters. Within 45 minutes they should all be out, if not remove the base from the cage
and place it on its side.
After initially trying to escape through the window, it shouldn't be long before they are on the perches
settling into their new home.
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ROOSTING TIME:
Budgies don't sleep in one block like humans, rather they take multiple blocks lasting from a
few minutes to an hour. They also take naps during the day. However, after 13 hours continuous
light they will become fatigued. Control their day by means of the curtains and light switch
to give a day of this duration.
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SWITCHING THE LIGHT OFF:
Switching the room light off during darkness hours is potentially
dangerous. Always give an audible warning such as a whistle to allow the birds time to take
up their roosting positions.
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THE NEXT DAY:
By now your small flock should be settled in their new environment. If the hens are well
bonded to their partners, they will show interest in the nest boxes. This won't happen
straight away unless you're very lucky. However, if after 2 weeks there's been no interest in
the boxes, they're probably too young.
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COURTING:
When birds want to breed they usually go through a courtship routine. With budgies the cock
starts it off by cautiously approaching the hen and indicating that he wants to feed her.
This usually results in her jabbing at him to which he jumps back. When she is receptive they will
perform synchronised head movements to indicate betrothal. If the cock feels strongly about the hen,
he will fly repeatedly to either side of her until she relents or flies away. Once bonded,
the hen will have no interest in other suitors and cocks little interest in other hens. After the third
egg is laid when the hen is settled on her clutch, the cock may wander. But whatever the outcome
of his ventures, practically all will return to their mates.
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LAYING:
After adopting a suitable box, the hen will check it's security repeatedly. She will want to
know how many ways in there are, how hard the wood is especially at the entrance. She'll
check the bed for hardness and remove all debris from the interior. Each day she'll spend
more and more time in the box. When she's satisfied that it's a safe place to raise her
young, she'll roost (sleep) in the box and lay her first egg the next day. This will be about
10 days after she first entered the box.
She will lay an egg every other day to a maximum of 10.
The number of eggs she lays is proportional to her feelings of security. A cage breeding hen will
quite often lay the maximum - There's no chance of her mate wandering and she is protected
against predators. A first time hen in a new environment will most likely lay 3 or 4, later on increasing
to 6 or 7.
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KEEP A RECORD OF THE TIMES THEY'RE OUT, WHAT THEY DO AND HOW LONG THEY'RE OUT FOR. THIS
WILL ASSIST YOU IN DECIDING IF ANYTHING IS WRONG. AFTER THE 3RD EGG IS LAID A HEN WILL
IDEALLY BE REALLY SETTLED IN HER NEST. SHE WILL LEAVE THE NEST IN THE MORNING, AND FLY TO
HER MATE WHO WILL FEED HER. AFTER "STRETCHING HER LEGS" SHE'LL DASH BACK TO THE BOX AND
CONTINUE INCUBATING. SHE'LL BE OUT LESS THAN 5 MINUTES. THIS SHOULD OCCUR 3 OR 4 TIMES AT
THE MOST - LATER ON SHE MAY POP OUT
JUST TWICE A DAY - THE COCK WILL FEED HER AT THE NEST. IF THE ROOM IS COLD, SHE'LL GO BACK
SOONER. IF THIS IS THEIR FIRST ATTEMPT, RESIST ALL TEMPTATION TO DISTURBING THE EGGS!
CHECK ONCE A DAY WITHOUT OPENING THE BOXES. IF AFTER 19 DAYS AFTER THE LAST
EGG IS LAID NO CHICKS HAVE HATCHED THEN CLEAR OUT ALL THE EGGS TO LET HER KNOW IT'S ALL
OVER, AND SHE CAN TRY AGAIN. MY FIRST CHICKS FLEW THE NEST IN THE CORNER OF MY CONVERTED
DINING ROOM. IT'S WAS A GREAT EXPERIENCE!
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The chicks will hatch 17 -18 days after laying and the hen will feed it every couple of hours or so.
It's cries can be heard as a short faint wisping sound repeated 2 to 3 times per seconds. The
cries will be interrupted as it takes it's mothers' milk, After all the chicks have hatched,
put a couple of teaspoons of seed in the box every day, This will ease the burden on the cock and
greatly speed up the weaning process after fledging. About 4 weeks after hatching, the chicks will
start to look out of the box. A week later on the 35th day after hatching it should fly the nest.
The chicks will probably fly to the tree but not always successfully. If it lands on the floor, DON'T
pick it up - It'll find it's own way. Observe for at least an hour to check it's progress. If it
becomes clear that the chick is unable to fly, you must intervene. The hen or cock will be
reluctant to feed it on the floor. Simply catching it and placing it on a perch is rarely
successful - 9 times out of 10 it will immediately jump off. Try using a SPIDERMAN! Although
it takes a bit of a knack and some patience, it's very effective. If after 2 hours, it hasn't
been fed, put it back in the nest. The hen will feed it along with the rest of the chicks. If it
was the last one to leave she may not go back, in which case you'll have to HAND feed it.
It is the cocks' job to feed the chicks after flying the nest although the hen will do so if he's
reluctant. After 2 weeks the chicks should be feeding themselves.
If all has gone well and you're very lucky you will now have TWELVE budgies! - The two original
pairs and four chicks from each. The chicks will be very inhibited the first few months but
later on will become more adventurous and playful. It's during this time you'll be able to
assess each individuals' character. Make notes all the time to prepare yourself for any future
problems.
Soon after weaning, the hens will prepare for the second clutch. This is usually weeks after
the last chick flies the nest. However it can occur a LOT earlier - sometimes even before the
last chick has flown the nest. This is not normal and could indicate something wrong with the
relationship. A pestering cock is one reason.
The second round behaviour is NOT the same as the first. The hens will be more confident, more
experienced and more assured. You have been monitoring them but at the same time, they have
been monitoring YOU! If they are satisfied with your efforts and their partners', They will be
eager to return to the boxes and start a second clutch.
The chicks are now two months old and the hens are in the middle of the second round.
This is the time for vigilance.
The first round youngsters will be more boisterous and adventurous. The hens especially will fly to the
nests - any nest, not just their own. The sitting hens will expect this and know how to deal
with it. She'll come off her eggs and shoo the youngster away. Although mainly curiosity on the
part of the youngster, the constant cooling of the eggs will be detrimental to the success of her
second round clutch. When a youngster doesn't get the message and persistently pesters an incubating hen,
she must be segregated. This is where the second enclosure comes in.
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THE SECOND ENCLOSURE:
This enclosure is used to separate the troublesome ones from the breeding flock. If this is
to be in the same room
it's better to prepare it at the outset to avoid upsetting the nesting hens.
Although my enclosure was a small porch alongside the main room, a large pen in the same room
should work as well. Fit it out as in the breeding room with lots of perches etc. This enclosure
will be a small scale duplication of the main room and will be completely sealed from it.
Its purpose is:
1: To break off the breeding cycle and allow the hens to rest
2: To separate the youngsters from the breeding area.
3: To separate the bullies from the breeding area.
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THE SECOND ENCLOSURE IN A SEPARATE ROOM
Isolating a single bird in a separate room is counter productive, especially if it's a
youngster - It will reflect in the mood of the flock. The bird will probably know why it
has been moved, however this drastic action will frighten it. Take along at least two other
youngsters - the ones it gets along with. Your instinct (or notes) should indicate the best
candidates. After all the second round chicks have flown the nest, close the boxes and return
the segregated birds to
the main room. This will clear any feelings of being stigmatized and also allow the youngsters
valuable experience of the new arrivals and their development.
Watch closely in the few days after the re-introduction as some young hens will tease a
chick especially a flightless one. If this occurs, immediately CAGE it. I
generally give a weeks confinement, and find on release that the bird has learned it's
lesson and further confinement has not been necessary.
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HITTING THE BUFFERS!
Its now six months down the line and you may have eighteen budgies in your aviary! Boy will
your hands be full! This is a time for consolidation. More than likely, the second
enclosure will be in permanent use. Although a hen will very reluctantly mate without
a nest, it WILL occur. To some hens the dropping of an egg is a sad and depressing thing
to have to do. One of my hens, rather than drop her egg flew into an occupied nest, laid
the egg, stayed a short while and then flew out again, leaving the egg to be incubated by
the other hen.
In situations like this or if the cock is seen to try to tread his mate (the placing of one
foot on her back) it's better to move him to the second enclosure. This is a time of
rest and relaxation. The feeding and rearing of the chicks is demanding for both
parties but especially the hen. She will be totally happy when her
partner is placed out of reach for a while and is in audible or visible contact.
The second enclosure should now contain: Bullies from both clutches, but mainly the first,
and over-sexed cocks.
The breeding room should now contain: Playful chicks from both clutches and their mothers.
It's not necessary to systematically separate the sexes as in the traditional method. There's
no doubt that the management is greatly simplified but you're not creating a psychiatric
clinic but a budgie world! Frequent monitoring and note taking will more than adequately
arm you with the information needed to preempt dangerous situations.
At this point there's no more space in a small room for another clutch. I was fortunate
to have a medium sized attic at my disposal and rather than sell my birds
(to which I got attached) I converted it.
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INTRODUCING A NEW BIRD
................................................................
A new bird being introduced into an existing flock is best left
in the cage overnight. This will give it opportunity to assess
the new environment and note the pecking order. Mid-morning is
the best time to release it as it will have had its first feed
and will have plenty of time to become familliar with the new
surroundings.
................................................................
It is VERY important to instill trust in your flock from the
outset.
SOME GUIDE- LINES:
AVOID clearing a hen off her eggs for ROUTINE inspection - it's
unnecessary. Wait until she leaves of her own accord. You'll
gain respect and trust. There will be times when this HAS to be
done in which case let her know in advance with a tap on the
nest or whistle.
DON'T HAVE FAVOURITES it just causes resentment. This sometimes
can be difficult. I got VERY attached to a particular hen and
went out of my way to find her a suitable mate to the
disadvantage of other unpaired hens - not good.
Only CAGE a bird for more than 2 weeks IF it's CLEARLY
dangerous. And even in this case build a pen if space permits
or a COMPOUND. TWO weeks is about THIRTY weeks in a budgies
life - keep this relationship in mind.
MAKE SURE all fittings such as NESTS, TOYS, MILLET etc are
sound. It only takes a small accident to worry a budgie and
although only temporary the birds will avoid that object.
I have strong feelings that a budgie cannot recognize a human
face - they see the whole body. This is awkward because your
change of clothing will mean to them a different person which
theoretically will extend the settling in period. Wearing the
same style of clothing is rather restricting and somewhat
impractical. However, during one period I wore an identical
pullover for two weeks and when I changed to a different style,
the birds "froze" as I walked into the room.
In the first few weeks make any radical change of appearance in
their presence. This will let them know that they are dealing
with the same person.
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SPIDERMAN:
A spiderman is a long stick or twig used to transport a flightless bird from place to place
without netting or touching it. The original spiderman was a long twig with 3 short branches
at the end which resembled a spider.
Usage: Approach the bird slowly and gently place the end a few inches away from it. Wait a few
moments to see if it will step on to the spider, (not very likely!) If not, gently touch its
feet with the spider. It will very likely recoil in fright. However on repeating this
procedure it should eventually take the hint.
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HAND FEEDING A YOUNG CHICK:
DO SOME PORRIDGE!
It can be a BIG mistake to make any changes while a hen is nesting. While one of my hens was
nesting I put up a second nest box and got a new hen. This was to have disastrous
consequences. The cock dumped his mate and went off with the new hen. Although he fed her
when she came out for her regular "stretches", she escaped 2 weeks later through an insecure
window. The cock fed the two older chicks (2 and 4 days from fledging) but refused to feed the
youngest. He was 21 days old and I was lost as what to do. In the end I removed him from the
box and fed him with porridge! After an initial reluctance he began to eat it with relish.
PREPARE the porridge in the normal way and let it cool to hand warmth. Place a few dollops in
a small container (I used the cap from a milk bottle). After the chick has fed, return it, along with
the porridge to the nest and repeat every 3 hours with fresh warm porridge.
.................................................................................................................................................................
TO CATCH A FALLING BIRD .................
CATCHING A BUDGIE is always going to be a dangerous, crass and awkward thing to do.
The NETTING method is the traditional way and 999 times out of 1000 is perfectly safe. However the odd
once in a thousand or so will lead to an injured bird. This generally arises because the bird fails to
close it's wings properly before hitting the back of the net. I injured a young hen by using a net which
wasn't very visible - She never flew again. But by providing her with means for her to visit the nest
she was able to procreate and produced three chicks.
Since then I have used an alternative method which is SPRAYING
This uses a GARDEN SPRAY BOTTLE (the type used for misting plant leaves) and is adjusted to produce a jet
of water as opposed to a mist. The bird is brought down RELATIVELY gently by means of a few squirts of
water. The addition of a couple of DROPS of detergent (WASHING UP LIQUID) helps. The bird can then
easily be apprehended on the floor by means of a net or the hands. Once caught, holding the
budgie gently against the chest has a calming effect.
DON'T use this method within two hours of sunset or if the temperature is less than 10 degrees
centigrade. Before adopting this method make sure no water can land on electrical appliances.
When catching a budgie especially in the first year use gloves. A budgie bite can occasionally
draw blood and therefore pose a theoretical risk of infection. Also your recoil will encourage
it to bite again! I use gloves made from thermal fleece which gives a good balance between
tactility and protection.
.................................................................................................................................................................
DEALING WITH CRISES
*******************
ABANDONED EGGS:
THE MAIN REASON A HEN ABANDONS HER EGGS IS WHEN HER MATE DESERTS HER.
The usual indications are:
1.Hen leaving nest often:-
THESE RATES ARE VALID FOR A 12 HOUR DAY AND AFTER THE THIRD EGG IS LAID:
a) 2 to 5 times a day - NORMAL.
b) 6 to 12 times a day - CAUSE FOR CONCERN.
c) More than once an hour - DESERTION or EGG BOUND.
d) More than twice and hour - THE HEN IS ALMOST CERTAINLY EGG BOUND.
2.Hen out for long periods:
MAXIMUM DURATION OF PERIODS AWAY FROM THE NEST AT THESE AVIARY TEMPERATURES:-
05-10 DEGREES C 05 MINUTES MAX
10-20 DEGREES C 07 MINUTES MAX
20-30 DEGREES C 10 MINUTES MAX
THE AVERAGE NORMAL PERIODS ARE APPROXIMATELY HALF THESE VALUES.
3.Hen perched at nest distressed and possibly calling.
4.Mate clearly taken up relationship with another hen.
If it is CLEAR that the eggs have been neglected or abandoned, immediately place them in WARM water
35 - 38 degrees centigrade. This will help to conserve the chicks' energy resources.
It's a good idea to familiar yourself to the feel of water at this temperature beforehand.
Use the kitchen sink as this large volume of water will stay warm longer and give you time to consider
the best recipient for the eggs. This hen must be already sitting on eggs - a hen preparing to lay
will not incubate them. A hen with chicks will, but the burden of the rearing of her own offspring
will put them at a disadvantage. She will be on and off them a lot especially if the chicks can walk and
it's an open - plan nest. These provisions can be successful if the situation is spotted in time.
IN SOME CASES SHE WILL STILL CONTINUE TO INCUBATE.
The cock will not be seen visiting the nest and the hen will be feeding herself.
In these cases placing 3 teaspoons of seed in the nest every day will allow her to continue
brooding without leaving the nest too often. She will still leave the nest occasionally
to feed herself and stretch her wings but this provision will assure her and ease her mind.
Unfortunately by the time this is recognised unless one is very vigilant, she will most
certainly have been off her eggs a lot trying to deal with the situation and the eggs may not hatch.
*
A hen will sometimes lay eggs and incubate them during the day but leave them at night to roost
in the aviary. This is rare and is almost certainly caused by a bad pairing. The hen will be low
ranking and partnered by a dominant cock. She will take a nest and lay eggs as a means
of escape and the cock will be seen entering the nest unduly often. After the third egg is laid,
a hen is reluctant to have her mate in the nest with her even when the bond is strong - her main
concern is her babies. She will tolerate him a handful of times a day. Should he be entering
the nest every hour or so then this is abnormal and indicative of pestering. If she roosts out at
night then this is certainly the case and the cock should be segregated.
*
It may be the case that a dominant hen will pair with a weak cock. He wants to feed her but is
intimidated by higher ranking cocks. She will stand at the nest squawking for him and occasionally
will destroy the eggs. The hen should in this case be caged for two weeks and them placed in the
RESTING PEN or COMPOUND. Otherwise remove the bullies one by one.
The keeper can also be the cause of an abandonment. See NATURE OF BUDGIES "BAD MOVE"
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BREEDING BUDGIES INDOORS
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